Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal

Door Cards From Sheet ABS

Thu, 19 Jul 2018 18:44:42 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I’ve worked on this off and on over the last two weeks, and put the last screw in today. I still need to install the door caps, but the fur/brush on them still needs replacing as they’re looking pretty worn. Also, I need to replace the door opener surrounds, but they’re not tight enough. I may need to build them up somehow. Regardless of all that, I now have cards, window winders and door pulls. I’m happy.

<I used nutserts.>	<Nutserts installed in the doors to receive stainless screws.>	<Driver side door with ABS sheet door card.>
<Chrome door pull and window winder.>	<Passenger side door.>

Posted 2018-07-19 18:44:42 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seat Belts

Mon, 11 Jun 2018 13:10:03 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

The seat belts are installed and now I’m just awaiting the guides for the headrests...

<Seatbelts with aviation-style buckles. I like!>

Posted 2018-06-11 13:10:03 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Chrome Door Pulls

Sat, 09 Jun 2018 10:43:51 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Interior door pulls I’ve known for some time that I didn’t want to put the original foam door pulls back into the MG. Not only were they in very bad shape, but I’ve always liked the chrome pulls better. So I bought some chrome door pulls and then realized, how the heck will I mount them to the doors? The ‘76 pulls had screws and plastic nuts set at a further distance and at an upward angle... but I thought there might be a chance that the door still had stamped holes from the original builds... I was right. The holes are shaped differently from each other and I looked and looked for nylon nuts that would fit and still accept the #10 screws, and fit tightly. I went about that for months, trying different things, looking for just the right thing. I even considered drilling new holes, or modifying the existing holes. But I wanted to be a good steward and not do anything that wasn’t reversible. I finally tried a different idea, using a strip of aluminum flashing bent to fit the inside of the door, folded over at the edges to hold it in place, and then speed nuts clipped in place to accept the #10 stainless screws. A word of caution: be careful with the flashing when you’re working with it, the edges can be sharp! I think it turned out well.

<The hole spacing. The odd shaped hole is for the original foam handles.>	<A strip of aluminum flashing, cut to half inch width. I slipped it inside the door and marked the locations.>	<I used an awl to punch the holes.>
<The aluminum flashing strip with speednuts clipped in place.>	<Everything lines up.>	<Slip the strip inside the door and slightly bend the tabs to hold it in place.>
<Mount the handle. I used #10 stainless screws.>	<And then bend the tabs right after everything is in place.>	<All done. I still have work to do on the door cards, theyll come later.>

Posted 2018-06-09 10:43:51 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seats Installed

Fri, 08 Jun 2018 14:07:09 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

There they are. I’m pretty happy with them, though even without the wood strips I sit pretty high. May have to do something about that. Afterwards, I traced down an electrical problem and found that the hazard switch is not passing juice on to the turn signal flasher. I need to replace the switch, and heck, might as well also replace the headlight switch...

<Seats bolted in place.>

Posted 2018-06-08 14:07:09 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seats Finished

Thu, 07 Jun 2018 18:00:11 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Yesterday morning I slipped the new covers onto the seat backs and foams. I let them rest over night and thought over and over again about whether to use adhesive for the final assembly. By this morning I decided to forgo the glue. I got an early start, and by lunch time I had both seats covered in their new vinyl. I tried to stay focused and work slowly. I reused all of the original clip hardware as well as the original headrest grommets. I started with the seat bottoms, setting clips in the front first and then working down both sides. I then moved on to the seat backs. That took a while because I was reusing the headrest grommets and I had to take those apart to reuse them. I put the headrests in place before moving on with the clips on the backs and I think that helped keep things aligned. The little flaps on either side of the backs aren’t secured as of yet. I didn’t have any of the original small screws or cup washers and need to see if I can source those. And the flaps don’t quite stretch down as far as the original covers, so I may not secure them at all. It’s a good thing I took lots of photos when I disassembled the seats because I reviewed those constantly. I also see why there is ample advice about keeping one seat together while working so you can use it as a reference. Though, in my case, that wasn’t an option as I needed to get the frames cleaned and coated. Is the fit perfect? No. But considering that it’s the first time I’ve ever done anything like this, they didn’t turn out bad at all. The next job is to install the seats back in the car, and make a decision on what seat belts I want. I’m almost certain I will go with aviation style buckles... I think they look far sharper than the more modern look.

<Completed and with headrests covered.>	<The bottoms and the backs rested overnight.>	<Driver side seat.>
<Clipped and trimmed.>	<Closer view.>	<One of the completed seat bottoms.>
<Completed seat.>

Posted 2018-06-07 18:00:11 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seat Redux II

Tue, 05 Jun 2018 21:53:21 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

More photos from today...

<Backer boards taped in place. Original screws at the bottom of the boards were rusted and beyond saving, so I used stainless steel screws.>

<Another view, from the front.>

Posted 2018-06-05 21:53:21 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seat Frames Redux

Tue, 05 Jun 2018 21:46:39 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I got the seat frames back last week from being blasted and powder coated and they came out great. So nice I almost don’t want to recover them... This morning I worked on cleaning up the seat rails and the rest of the seat hardware. I also installed the new webbing. After reading about how much of a pita the webbing is supposed to be, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the job was. This afternoon I added the new seat backer boards and placed the foam to see how it all fit... Tomorrow, the new covers.

<Seat frames back from the powder coaters.>	<The finish is really nice.>	<716847DB-E9CD-4D66-A12E-10FE64E2E41D>
<New webbing. This was an easier job than expected.>	<Original hardware after some time with the wire wheel.>	<Cleaned rails installed.>
<New burlap layer. I doubled it over.>	<Foams just placed.>	<Tracing the backer boards.>
<And now cut.>

Posted 2018-06-05 21:46:39 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Seat Frames

Sun, 20 May 2018 19:17:39 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Got a quote back today for blasting and powder coating the seats for the B. 165 for both frames. A doable price, and it doesn’t involve me stripping, prepping and then painting the frames. I pulled the driver side seat out of the car this afternoon and stripped it down to the frame, removing as many of the bits and bobs as possible and bagging it all. It now joins the passenger seat I’d done previously. Tomorrow I’ll drop it off at the shop for processing. They said they’d need it for five days. That works just fine for me. Yesterday I worked on the electrics a little, tracking down a problem with the hazard light relay. Replaced with a new one rated for LED’s, and ran a ground wire back to the spot where the old relay was mounted and used that screw for ground. Parked like a charm. Now I need to keep tracking down those other electrical problems. Not all the lights are working now. But I have a good idea what’s going on.

<B7A47D90-0C77-48CF-A23A-E67C40EA94FD>

<FF6FA07B-9250-4C4A-87A9-2CA76AB19451>

Posted 2018-05-20 19:17:39 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Oil Lines

Sat, 14 Apr 2018 23:07:48 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I replaced the two oil lines, making a mess in the process. The line to the filter, and then the line to the oil pressure sending unit. I also removed the distributor and put the new rubber grommet on it. Then I ran the engine for a while, warmed it up, and set the timing again. I also tightened up the big oil line as it was leaking just a little. Then I took her for a drive up the cul de sac and around the block. Parked her, then pulled the Toyota into the garage and replaced the resistor for the AC fan. All went well and I’m pretty happy with the day.

<A7534A61-87B4-4D4C-A5AD-A1DB0C7DD7A6>	<D7DCB236-CE77-4A44-8D2C-CC3E1AE8973B>	<62F6546C-A7E3-40F3-B64A-815A85D0956C>
<A35F070C-782C-47AA-A087-C07E0C3ABE84>

Posted 2018-04-14 23:07:48 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Posted A Couple Updates...

Sat, 17 Mar 2018 22:42:30 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I was remiss in entering some updates from over th last few weeks, so I’ve done that tonight and backdated the posts... I ordered a replacement flex hose for the line going to the oil sending unit and it arrived this week. I also ordered a new turn signal switch as the original one was jacked up. I spent a little time trying to fit the new switch and found that it doesn’t quite fit the same. I’ll have to have a go at that when I have a free Saturday... maybe next weekend. I’ve also done more research and I now suspect a different leak I’ve been seeing at the overdrive is actually coming from the solenoid. I need to order the o rings for that. Maybe during spring break I can have this all done and take a spin. I’ll also try to get more photos to post.

Posted 2018-03-17 22:42:30 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Distributor And Timing

Sat, 17 Mar 2018 22:31:04 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

March 11, 2018 I got a good full day in yesterday. I had been thinking about the new timing light, and the fact that the timing mark was jumping around when I was trying to set the timing on the MGB. I did some research since the last time I worked on the car, and it all came back to the distributor. So... Yesterday, I pulled the distributor from the car and broke it down as far as I could. With it all apart, I tried to clean as much as I could. Really, it needed to be blasted, but I didn’t want a mess, and I don’t have a cabinet yet for that kind of work. So I used the wire wheel and Scotch Brite and sandpaper and the Dremel tool. I got everything at least passable. And I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. A combination of Simple Green and lube spray to cut the oil and grease finally did the trick. I got it all clean. It’s not pretty yet, but it is clean. In the process of all this, I found the base plate, which consists of two plates mounted together that are supposed to swivel, was seized solid. So I cleaned and lubed that real well. And then I cleaned some more. The springs and the advance cams seem ok, and work. The springs are fairly tight. I put it all back together and got it running right at the end of the day, almost six o’clock. I ran the rpms up to three thousand or so and set the timing as described by John Twist, guessing at the 32° btdc. Only when I was in bed last night did it occur to me that I could have used the dial back on the timing light. Oh, well. Regardless, the timing mark was dead on. No jumping about like before. That was the issue I’d had before. I’m glad that I’m learning all of this and figuring it out. Also, I think that the wiring connections on the distributor that go with the original device, for lack of better word, looks to me like they could be disconnected and sealed. Those electronics are no longer used since the Allison ignition was installed. That means I could clean up the engine bay a little more. I also think I figured out where the oil leak on the engine is coming from. I originally thought it was from the drain plug, but I now think it’s from the flex hose going to the oil pressure gauge. So, I need to fix that. And I need to tighten the bolts on the transmission, I think, because I think that might be where that leak is coming from. And I need to get a tray or something to put under the car for these situations. I learned, too, yesterday, that I could roll the car, in gear, back and forth and set the timing mark. That’s pretty cool. I need to tighten the new parking brake cables. I was able to move the car while it was engaged! I forgot to take a photo of the cleaned and refit distributor. Maybe I can do that sometime soon. Also, I looked high and low for some definitive info about the size of screws on the distributor. I’d like to replace them if I can find the right ones. Yeah, so... I was pretty jazzed yesterday.

<Lucas Opus... Nasty!>	<Vacuum advance and old electronics.>	<This plate was grimy and seized when I removed it. Now its cleaned and lubed.>
<Looking inside...>	<And the underside of the 45D4E.>	<Rust on rust...>

Posted 2018-03-17 22:31:04 by Michael Todd Thorpe

New Parking Brake Cable

Sat, 17 Mar 2018 22:16:24 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

March 5, 2018 I worked on the MGB today. Jacked her up, removed the old parking brake cable and put in the new one. I’ve hardly set any tension and it’s working pretty well. It is way under tightened than the old one. So, that’s good. Lots of room for adjustment.

Posted 2018-03-17 22:16:24 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Third Cylinder Clatter

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 13:36:30 -0600

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Pulled the valve cover off and checked the clearance on the third cylinder... sure enough, the intake valve was “clacking”... I tried the John Twist routine of sliding the .10 feeler into that rocker gap and it quieted right down, so I readjusted the valve. Runs a lot quieter now. This also solved the third cylinder misfire I’ve been seeing.

Posted 2018-01-13 13:36:30 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Big Update

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 10:50:29 -0600

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Wow, been a long time since I wrote anything here. In the last year, I’ve bought tires, replaced all the rubber hoses in the engine compartment, pulled the Zenith Stromberg carb and rebuilt it, and also replaced the brake booster. That is a very brief overview of a heck of a lot of work. I’ve had her on her own feet and driven her around the block a couple times and down the street to put gas in her. Very nice to have “Sweet B” running and on the road. I’ve been dealing with a high idle and a vacuum leak, all dealt with so far thanks to a lot of research and reading here on MGE. Now to adjust the fuel/air mixture and check the valve lash. I’ve set the valves a couple times, having never done that before, after again much research and reading here. I may have made a mistake, or I may have a worn valve or lifter... I don’t know yet. But... I think I hear a ‘clatter’ and I also notice that the third cylinder isn’t always firing, though I’ve checked spark all the way to the cylinder and plug. I ordered a compression checker and it arrived yesterday, so perhaps I’ll have a little time for that this weekend. I’ve also ordered seat foams to redo the seats, and I’ve decided I like the look of the old-style chrome interior door pulls over the foam handles that were original to the car. I’ve also been thinking seriously about using ABS sheet plastic for the door cards, and not covering them... I’m not sure about that yet. I continue on the job of cleaning up the engine compartment... This poor car sat for so long outside, and was neglected for so long by the DPO... but I’m making headway and happy with the results thus far.

<Right off the B.>	<Soda blasted the body, rebuilt and back in place.>	<The heat shield was in very bad condition.>
<So, I fabricated a new one from an aluminum bakers half sheet pan.>	<Here is the heat shield with fiberglass mesh heat reflector stuck on.>	<New hoses and clamps all around.>
<New brake booster installed. From British Parts Northwest.>

Posted 2018-01-13 10:50:29 by Michael Todd Thorpe

More Clutch

Wed, 10 Aug 2011 10:18:31 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Proceeded to clean up the master cylinder this morning. I used Jack Austin's (twigworker) suggestion (http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1300670,1300825#msg-1300825) of hot water and soap... Got most if not all of the gunk out of the master... the reservoir and the bore are clean now. From what I can tell there seems to be a bit of rust or corrosion a ways back in, and some creeps towards the end of the bore. Very iffy. I'm not sure if I want to continue and try to rebuild this master or just buy a new one.

The slave is seized up tight. When I pulled it off the transmission, the boot looked to have been compromised and the inside was full of sand and tar/oil/gunga... I have it cleaned up now and sitting with some penetrating oil soaking from the hose port down into the cylinder from the back... not sure if that's going to work.

What next? Replace or rebuild? I already have the rebuild kits for both cylinders...

Edit: Gave the master a second cleaning, hot water and soap but this time scrubbed inside of bore and reservoir with old toothbrush... looks better.

Posted 2011-08-10 10:18:31 by Michael Todd Thorpe

In The Clutch

Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:39:57 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Spent the morning pulling the clutch master and slave cylinders out of the B.

Finally got the master out, pretty gunked up inside... I read somewhere on the forum that really hot and soapy water is a good treatment, then let dry overnight. I'll try this later. After washing it I'll inspect the bore and decide weather to continue with a rebuild. I'm not sure if the thing is plated or bare metal, but the exterior has a fair bit of corrosion, not sure if that can be cleaned up with a wire wheel or not.

Pulled the slave out, the rubber boot came apart in my hands as I attempted to free it from the clutch yoke. Spent quite a bit of time cleaning the dang thing... There was a huge amount of crud and dirt and what looked like sand packed inside... I'm not sure if it's re-useable... I may just need to replace it altogether.

While I was underneath the B, I pulled the old hose out and installed the new hose and left it to wait for the reinstall of the slave... quite the chore, but I wanted it done while I was down there...

Posted 2011-08-08 14:39:57 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Brakes IIII

Sat, 06 Aug 2011 14:27:56 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Finished off the brake calipers this morning, more or less. Need to put the pads and retaining clips back in, but the clips delivered (I've ordered so many things of late, I don't recall where I purchased these) weren't the right ones (too long)... need to see if I can source some locally.

I fouled another dust seal retaining ring this morning, as well, fortunately had several others in stock. When I got everything together I realized I had the pistons spun around and facing the wrong way (indentations facing away from the hub) and I then needed to pop them out again (judicious use of an air hose) and re-seat the pistons facing the correct way.

Bolted everything back in place on the front hubs and then installed the new brake rubber hoses. Re-checked the passenger side rear brake hub and everything still seems a little off... I suspect that when the system is finally bled and pressurized that the hub/shoes will seat properly... or so I hope. I'll keep an eye on this as time progresses.

Will need to remember to double check all the brake systems once things are back together and moving...

Next up: Bench bleed the master cylinder, reinstall and then bleed the whole system. On my way home from work on Friday I stopped at HF and picked up a MityVac 8000 for this purpose... Now just need to learn how to use it!

Posted 2011-08-06 14:27:56 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Dems Da Brakes III

Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:05:04 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Both good and bad today.

First off, I was a bit concerned about how my back brakes went together last weekend after reading a couple things on the forum... decided to pull the drums off and double check my work. Everything looked correct, though I'm still concerned about the way the passenger side "feels" compared to the driver's side... not as smooth, like things are slow or gummy... I pulled everything off again, applied copious amounts of brake cleaner to be sure I didn't have any unseen gunk, then reassembled the brakes. Still feels the same. Hmmm.... Also, while I was down there on both sides, I installed the new rubber boot on both e-brake levers that I ordered last week from Moss. A tight fit, but they work.

On the front brakes, the new calipers went in with just a little fuss... I purchased the caliper tool from Moss and I can't imagine trying to assemble without it. I did not split the caliper halves, I didn't think it was necessary. Now the bad part: On two of the dust seal retaining rings, I got them started a little catawampus and fouled up the rings. Alas, time to order another pair...

All in all, not a bad day with the B...

Next up: finish the calipers, reinstall on the B, and maybe (just maybe) start putting the hydraulics back together and bleed.

Posted 2011-07-30 14:05:04 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Dems Da Brakes II

Sat, 23 Jul 2011 15:56:30 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

93Âº outside. It finally drove me from the garage.

Worked on the brakes today. Got stymied along the way...

First, started cleaning up the calipers. Used compressed air to push out the pistons, took me longer than I anticipated. I expected some mess, but old brake fluid went everywhere. And that was with me using plenty of fresh rags and newspaper laid down... Got all four pistons out and cleaned them up, cleaned the calipers... The calipers looked in good condition, no pitting. But there was some scale buildup inside. I took some fine emery sandpaper to the scale and it cleaned up nicely. A few of the calipers looked good, but two of them have some funky wear or rust creeping under the chrome. I think I saw some stainless steel piston somewhere for sale... if I can find them again, I'll order a set. That was the end of the front brakes for today...

I blew some air through the brake lines while I had everything apart.

Moved to the back brakes. Pulled the drums off, both in good condition and the shoes looked in good condition. I'd ordered the slave pistons for the back earlier, so I decided to replace them today since I couldn't move ahead with the front brakes. Pulled everything off, did a little cleanup, removed the old cylinders and then put in the new cylinders... a slower process than I anticipated due to the fact that I had a hell of a time getting the new e-clips in place on the cylinders...

Adjusted the back brakes per John Twist's video and everything seems to work correctly.

Next time: I need to adjust the handbrake tension (very loose) and finish the front calipers, install the new master cylinder, then bleed the brake system... oh joy!!!

Posted 2011-07-23 15:56:30 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Bearing Down On My Goal

Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:39:47 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I spent the morning seating the bearing races in the front hubs. I then bolted the new brake rotors back onto the hubs, packed the new bearings with grease (a new skill learned!) and put the whole assembly back in place on the front spindles. I tightened each side down without the shims (as instructed in the Bentley Manual) to be sure the bearing races were properly seated... then added the shims and tightened everything up. Both hubs have the requisite slight "tunk" as described by John Twist in his youtube video... I realize I need a 1/2" torque wrench to do the final tightening on the castle nuts... perhaps I'll run out to Sears and pick one up this evening and take the wife to dinner afterwards.

Next up: Start on the brakes: Install new master cylinder, blow out the steel lines, then put the rest of the new brake parts on/in place...

Posted 2011-07-16 13:39:47 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Hubs And Bearings

Sat, 09 Jul 2011 13:26:46 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Spent the morning working on the hubs. Really, I should say I spent the morning cleaning the hubs... I did drive out the bearing raceways with a hammer and drift, easy once I'd read how here on the forum.

If you're stumbling along and find this, the inside approach from both sides to the raceways have two small indentations opposite each other that allow you to set a drift in contact with the back side of the raceway. Tap one side, then the other, until the race drops out. Flip the hub and repeat with the opposite side.

Both hubs were quite grimy, one had been over-packed with grease by a DPO, the other side had some kind of grease, perhaps the wrong kind... looked like the stuff had melted and run inside the hub at sometime, then solidified. Hmmm. I don't know what to make of that. BUT... using some parts cleaner and then some Simple Green, followed by a coating of Pyroil penetrating spray, I was able to get the hubs and attendant bits more-or-less clean and ready for installing the new bearings. But that will have to wait for another day... it's now too hot (100Âº) outside to do much more than retreat inside the house and the a/c.

Next up: Install the bearings... then hubs, rotors... then move on to brakes.

Posted 2011-07-09 13:26:46 by Michael Todd Thorpe

More Suspension Work

Sat, 02 Jul 2011 16:22:20 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

More or less a repeat of last week...

I finished up on the passenger side, installed the lower trunion kit (ordered from Moss last weekend) and tidied up... then moved on to the driver's side and repeated the whole earlier ([url=http://www.mgexperience.net/journal/Todd/6191]last weekend, last journal entry[/url]) process... Except: when putting everything back together, the last bolt to replace in the spring pan... the threads are galled and I need to now find a replacement...

But, all in all, a good day before the 100Âº-plus temps drove me back in the house about 3pm.

Next up: work on the hubs (bearings, shims, etc.) and then the brakes.

Posted 2011-07-02 16:22:20 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Suspension Work

Sat, 25 Jun 2011 14:07:14 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Decided that since I had the hubs and rotors off to do brake work I would also replace the a-arm bushings... Last weekend I'd noticed the condition on the drivers' side, almost non-existent. Ordered the bushing kits last week by phone from Suspension Restoration Parts in Modesto, CA... Nice set, black polyurethane impregnated with black graphite.

As I worked I found I also needed the seals for the lower trunion, and I should have ordered some cotter pins... (heck, I might try to find those somewhere here in town, but it'll be easier just to order online...)

Today's work: I pulled the stubborn hub/rotor on the passenger's side with a bearing puller, easy-peasy. The bearing was shot on this side and everything was dry, looks like the grease had all hardened. This is the same side I found the shims out of order on the spindle, next to the flat washer... Previous Owner?

Next up the Fulcrum Pins and A-arms. I supported the spring pan with the jack, loosened the pan bolts, pulled the bolts from the widest part of the pan, then lowered that side of the pan and released/removed the spring as well as the rest of the pan. Easier than I expected, I stole the idea from forum member "Simon Austin"...

(See here, with pics: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,859670,860597#msg-860597 )

Then, pulled the bolt (fulcrum pin) at the shock and replaced the bushings. This was much harder than I expected and I tried several techniques before I settled on greasing up the bushings, threading everything with a long bolt, stacks of fender washers and a nut, then tightening it all down to seat the bushings into place. I let it set for a little bit to settle and not spring back on me, then released the bolt/washers, shimmied the whole mess into place between the arms of the shock absorber and drove the pin home, tapping with a hammer (not hard)... put the castle nut back on and tightened the whole thing up. Surprisingly, this was what took me the most time this morning, just working this process out. I expect the drivers' side to go more smoothly now that I've figured it out.

I then pulled the nuts on the wider side of the a-arm, then the lower trunion bolt. Looks like I need new seals here (I should have realized that earlier) so I'll probably order the kit from Moss. The a-arms came off easily, the bushes went on easily (I greased everything) and then re-assembled. At this point I stopped for the day. I need to order said seals (or the whole trunion kit?) and some spare cotter pins... with those in hand I think I can finish up the passenger side and then move on to the drivers' side. I'm doing one side at a time so I have a reference point in case I goof something up.

Next up, trunion seals, cotter pins, replace the spring pan, re-insert the spring, jack it all back into alignment and tighten the spring pan bolts up, move on to the other side...

About 1:30 the heat and hunger drove me out of the garage and into the house.

Sunday 6/26/11 Update: Ordered the trunion kits from Moss Motors and found the cotter pins I need at Home Depot, no problems. I hope to finish the passenger's side next weekend and, perhaps, complete the Driver's side... Cross my fingers!

Posted 2011-06-25 14:07:14 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Thems The Brakes...

Sat, 18 Jun 2011 10:41:27 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Good Lord, where to start? I've done more exploration in my effort to resurrect this B...

Clutch rubber hose looks fine, though I'm planning to replace that and the slave cylinder anyways... BUT... the clutch master cylinder I would call dry, but for the dark sludge at the bottom of the well. What does that mean? Well, no doubt I need to rebuild or replace that...

Continuing to work on the brakes. Removed the rear drums (relatively easy) and the shoes and drums look fine to me. I think I'll replace those slave cylinders anyway as part of my hydraulic overhaul.

The front brakes are another issue. Last week I'd attempted to get the front right hub off the spindle so I could get to the rotor but that whole assembly seems frozen in place. Today I attempted again to remove it, gave up for a bit and moved to the driver's side which came off in an almost textbook way, nice and smooth. Plenty of grease everywhere in that hub/bearings/etc. BUT... and I knew this looked likely considering the condition of all the dried-out rubber on the B, the A arm bushings are almost completely missing on this side. I had thought, during this past week, I might put off replacing the front suspension rubber for a bit until I got things rolling on the road. In other words, live with the bad rubber until the car was on the road, smogged and registered, then take a weekend or two to refresh all that rubber later. Now I think I need to just do it first.

Back to the passenger side hub... As I did more inspection and tinkering about, I found one of the shims had deteriorated behind the castle nut and, in comparison to the driver's side hub, everything looks dry and crusty. Probably explains the hub's reluctance to being removed. I think I need to just replace the bearings on front end now, too... And the deteriorated shim... does that indicate the PO had tinkered in here and tightened things up too much? Hmmm... not sure. I've gone ahead and sprayed some Pyroil into this hub in hopes it helps loosen things up. I've thought about trying a bearing puller here, so I'll see if I can borrow one from Mike A. next week... Maybe that will help.

Now: Time to make a list of parts and place an order, I suppose...

Posted 2011-06-18 10:41:27 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Brakes - First Step

Sat, 11 Jun 2011 13:16:09 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Ok, ok, ok... pulled the master cylinder last week, ordered a new one off Rob Garrison's ebay.

This morning, doing more recon on the rest of the system. Hoses completely shot (I expected that), discs are rusted so I'm thinking of replacing them and the pads. Pulled the passenger side caliper and I tried to remove the hub and rotor but, after getting the castle nut off, the hub is pretty stubborn. Looked around the forum to see if there's a trick but didn't notice one. Sprayed the left side with Pyroil and also the screws on the back brakes before calling it quits... Time for lunch and a retreat from the heat. Maybe I'll pick this back up in the morning... I need to do a bit more research here, I think.

Posted 2011-06-11 13:16:09 by Michael Todd Thorpe

She's Alive!

Sat, 11 Sep 2010 15:36:35 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

It started! Woo-hoo!!!

I stopped by Home Depot for a couple of small things, then got to work on the B this morning. Ended up just bypassing the heater core, dead-ended the heater valve (acting sticky and not closing completely) and directly connected the lower radiator hose branch to the water choke on the carb. Got myself a gallon of gas, filled the radiator with water and started her up. Third try did the trick, I think basically because it took that long to get the fuel into the dry carb. Oil pressure jumped right up immediately and at a very good level. A bit of blue smoke from the tail pipe, but considering I'd dumped a bunch of spray oil in the cylinders when I first got her, just to make sure the pistons weren't stuck, it wasn't too bad. Ran her for about ten minutes or so until she warmed up and then shut her down.

Now, on to the hydraulics, need some tires then... maybe she'll roll!

Posted 2010-09-11 15:36:35 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Busy Morning

Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:21:23 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Per some suggestions from my buddies Paul and Mike, I took a hose and ran some water through the block just to be sure there was no loose crud inside. I made up some plumbing bits and bobs as an adapter from water hose to radiator hose. Everything ran clear but for some rust... then re-attached the new hoses, replaced the new thermostat, and disconnected the hose from the heater to the heater valve. Said valve doesn't seem to be working very well, I can't turn it off or on completely. I think I'll need to replace it... need to look up on the forum what options there are for this. In the meantime I'll just dead-end the hose there. Need to make up a coupling from the lower radiator hose to the the small hose from the water choke. Perhaps something brass from the plumbing aisle will suffice...

Posted 2010-09-10 17:21:23 by Michael Todd Thorpe

More Done

Sun, 01 Aug 2010 11:41:03 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Ran around all morning yesterday looking for hoses and other bits... still came up short on emissions line... 5/16, 1/2, 5/8...

This morning: Replaced and gapped plugs, new rad cap, new water hose clamps, oil and filter change, reviewed dizzy cap and rotor, both in bad shape, ordered both from Moss...

Still need to do: lower heater pipe (purchased on ebay, awaiting arrival), some more hose replacements...

Put battery on charger...

Almost ready to try and start her...

Working on the B this morning was as good for my soul than spending the morning in church!

Posted 2010-08-01 11:41:03 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Starter Relay/ Fuse Block

Sat, 26 Jun 2010 17:26:16 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I spent the morning replacing the fuse block and refurbing the starter relay.

The old fuse block had become brittle and bits were breaking off when I tried to remove fuses. Replaced it with a new one from Moss. Looks almost identical. I also removed some wiring kludge the DPO had done to get a radio to work. Took some simple green to the wiring and harness in this area, looks better...

I checked the wiring from the steering column to the starter relay, all was good. The relay itself needed some work so I removed that, cleaned the exterior with the wire wheel, opened it up and found the points quite dirty. Took some fine emery paper to the points and the dremel fit with a mini wire wheel to all the contacts... Re-installed and all was good.

Another problem fixed!

Posted 2010-06-26 17:26:16 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Air Pump Bracket

Sun, 06 Jun 2010 17:03:50 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

The old-style bracket I ordered from ebay didn't fit right. Yesterday I opted to grind the original and the water pump ribs & shoulder, cleaned up the fan and pulleys and put them on. Also cleaned up the nuts & bolts of the whole shebang before the heat in the garage got to me...

<Just a bit off the edge...>

<Shoulder and Ribs>

<How it all Fits>

Posted 2010-06-06 17:03:50 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Smog Pump Bracket

Wed, 02 Jun 2010 13:27:07 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

In an attempt to deal with the way the old smog pump bracket fits over the new water pump (sits too high, resting on the shoulder of the pump) I've purchased an older-style smog pump bracket off e-bay... I felt uncomfortable milling anything off the shoulders of that new water pump and I thought this might be worth the 25 dollars...

Posted 2010-06-02 13:27:07 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Fuel Pump

Mon, 31 May 2010 17:39:05 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Well, it only took me a year to finish the job, but I installed the new fuel pump today... new banjo unions from a Moss kit (ordered a few weeks ago) and the rest of the fuel lines and new hose clamps. All looks good and, short of actually running a gallon of fuel through the system, I did a power test and got the old familiar SU ticking sound...

Posted 2010-05-31 17:39:05 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Productive Weekend

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:40:19 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

I got a lot done on saturday, namely installing the new tank from BritTek, replacing the rubber fuel lines and finishing the last bit of the wiring on the battery shutoff switch. I did find a cracked plastic where the fuel lines enter and leave the fuel pump, I suspect I'll need a new pump as that's not a replaceable bit of plastic. Also installed a new water pump (the whole thing that started this mess) and thermostat. Issue: the bracket where the smog pump tension arm attaches doesn't fit to where I seem to remember it mounting on the water pump. How am I going to fix this?

Posted 2009-07-13 11:40:19 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Gas Tank

Tue, 07 Jul 2009 11:30:35 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

The new Gas Tank Kit from Brit-Tek arrived yesterday. Looks good, includes all the mounting hardware as well as new sending unit. Will the weather be cool enough for me to install it this weekend? We'll see.

Posted 2009-07-07 11:30:35 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Battery Shutoff Switch

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 13:08:08 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

This past Saturday I had a little bit of time to work on installing the battery shutoff switch. Drilled the holes, mounted the switch, was ready to run the cables and found I needed a shorter battery cable and larger bolts for the ground strap.

Posted 2009-06-30 13:08:08 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Finally Back To It

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 10:20:11 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

After much neglect I'm finally back to the MG. Placed an order for a new fuel tank with Bob @ BritTek. The old tank had plenty of rust inside and out and I decided to just forgo the reseal in favor of a tank made from modern materials. The last few weekends I've spent some time tinkering on the car doing minor jobs, cleaning and that sort of thing, and gathering bits and bobs I need to get back to work.

Posted 2009-06-26 10:20:11 by Michael Todd Thorpe

More Electrical Fiddling

Sat, 27 Oct 2007 21:19:22 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

Spent some time today tracking down and sorting the ground on the fuel pump. Of course, it was a loose connection at the license plate holder. When reattached, key on, the pump ticked sweetly!

Last weekend, I bypassed the starter relay to the fuse block and found the starter works nicely. Is it the ignition key or is it just the relay? I'll order a new relay and replace. Also, found the plastic to be very brittle on the fuse block, bits broke of with no effort. Likewise with the wiring multi-connectors at the steering column... I think it wise to work through the car and replace the plastic bits along with the plan to replace all the rubber bits....

Posted 2007-10-27 21:19:22 by Michael Todd Thorpe

Dead Battery

Sat, 29 Sep 2007 16:49:46 -0500

Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal --

After a long period of neglect, I spent some time with Sweet B today. I got to work cleaning away all the junk that has accumulated around and on top of the car. I wiped all the cobwebs away. I removed the hardtop and put it aside. (I need to find a place to store that thing.) I attached the new ground cable to the battery box and cleaned the parts of the positive terminal with a wire wheel and a wire brush. All nice and clean. I installed the new battery, purchased well over a year ago, and tried to turn it over. Nothing. Dead battery. After a little research on the Net, I found that batteries will discharge just sitting on a concrete floor. I didn't know that! Now, time for a battery charger...

Posted 2007-09-29 16:49:46 by Michael Todd Thorpe