Michael Todd Thorpe's Journal
Home Page: Michael Todd Thorpe
Bakersfield, CA, USA
| Total Posts: 38 | Latest Post: 2018-07-19 |
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Also, I need to replace the door opener surrounds, but they’re not tight enough. I may need to build them up somehow.
Regardless of all that, I now have cards, window winders and door pulls. I’m happy.
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I’ve known for some time that I didn’t want to put the original foam door pulls back into the MG. Not only were they in very bad shape, but I’ve always liked the chrome pulls better.
So I bought some chrome door pulls and then realized, how the heck will I mount them to the doors? The ‘76 pulls had screws and plastic nuts set at a further distance and at an upward angle... but I thought there might be a chance that the door still had stamped holes from the original builds... I was right.
The holes are shaped differently from each other and I looked and looked for nylon nuts that would fit and still accept the #10 screws, and fit tightly. I went about that for months, trying different things, looking for just the right thing. I even considered drilling new holes, or modifying the existing holes. But I wanted to be a good steward and not do anything that wasn’t reversible.
I finally tried a different idea, using a strip of aluminum flashing bent to fit the inside of the door, folded over at the edges to hold it in place, and then speed nuts clipped in place to accept the #10 stainless screws.
A word of caution: be careful with the flashing when you’re working with it, the edges can be sharp!
I think it turned out well.
A strip of aluminum flashing, cut to half inch width. I slipped it inside the door and marked the locations.
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Afterwards, I traced down an electrical problem and found that the hazard switch is not passing juice on to the turn signal flasher. I need to replace the switch, and heck, might as well also replace the headlight switch...
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I got an early start, and by lunch time I had both seats covered in their new vinyl. I tried to stay focused and work slowly. I reused all of the original clip hardware as well as the original headrest grommets. I started with the seat bottoms, setting clips in the front first and then working down both sides. I then moved on to the seat backs. That took a while because I was reusing the headrest grommets and I had to take those apart to reuse them. I put the headrests in place before moving on with the clips on the backs and I think that helped keep things aligned. The little flaps on either side of the backs aren’t secured as of yet. I didn’t have any of the original small screws or cup washers and need to see if I can source those. And the flaps don’t quite stretch down as far as the original covers, so I may not secure them at all.
It’s a good thing I took lots of photos when I disassembled the seats because I reviewed those constantly. I also see why there is ample advice about keeping one seat together while working so you can use it as a reference. Though, in my case, that wasn’t an option as I needed to get the frames cleaned and coated.
Is the fit perfect? No. But considering that it’s the first time I’ve ever done anything like this, they didn’t turn out bad at all.
The next job is to install the seats back in the car, and make a decision on what seat belts I want. I’m almost certain I will go with aviation style buckles... I think they look far sharper than the more modern look.
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Backer boards taped in place. Original screws at the bottom of the boards were rusted and beyond saving, so I used stainless steel screws.
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