Red Arrows' Ascent

January: The brake master cylinder was replaced with an aftermarket unit identical to the original, purchased through Rimmerbros. The brake lines were properly bled.

February: the horn button on the steering wheel was customized, with the black paint removed to reveal the brass surface behind, the shield repainted in red and black, and the plastic re-polished.

March: All instruments were rebuilt (not restored) by Nisonger Instruments, and fitted with chrome bezels. The tachometer was simultaneously converted for use with electronic ignitions. All terminal wiring connections were removed of corrosion. The headlight switch was completely restored.

April: The heater control plates were pulled out and completely cleaned, lightly greased, and reassembled/remounted. The cables were dismantled, disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, assembled, and reaffixed to the heater system.

May:
• The water control valve was replaced, the flange was completely restored and refitted with a new o-ring rubber gasket, and the connecting pipe points were cleaned. The supporting bracket and vicinity of the firewall were removed of rust and repainted in heat & rust-resistant matte black.
• All heater hoses (except those coming directly from the radiator) were replaced with new hoses. The non-original t-connector was restored, and all push-connections were cleaned. New ring clamps were used where needed.
• The wire looming and exposed wires leading to the center dash panel, and running along the firewall in the engine bay, were cleaned.
• The thermostat housing was completely restored. The thermostat was tested and found functional.
• The trunk was fitted with a new locking cylinder with 2 respective keys. Components were lightly cleaned.
• The gear shift knob was refitted with a red/black Triumph Shield logo knob. The original knob is kept as a spare, but the shift pattern isn't straightly aligned when fitted.
• The dash bracket support (which should be also the crash pad, but the padding had been previously removed) was removed, polished, and refitted. The brass bezels on the warning lights were also brightened, and the red lenses were cleaned and polished.
• The sun visors and all bits included were completely overhauled and replaced. Finally. Supplied from Victoria British as an aftermarket kit for $85 total. The brackets did not align properly, so we had to bend them with a vice and some elbow grease to make them work.
• Various chrome bits on the backup lamp, the levers on the soft top, and other bits were cleaned and brightened.
• The wire terminals and grounds/grounding points leading to the horn were restored. This resolved previous issues with the horn infrequently working.
• The missing carpeted area on the driver side door panel was painted black as a temporary remedy, until new panels are acquired.
• The Realistic radio head unit (no. 12-1899, aftermarket) was pulled out for restoring.
• Realistic speakers behind the seats were repaired for proper functioning.
• Oil was changed with Pennzoil, and oil filter was replaced.
• A few grommets were fitted to the firewall where needed. Some areas still need done or redone.

June:
• The fuse box was overhauled and completely refitted in the proper, original setup. The loom leading in and out of the fuse box was deeply cleaned and all terminals leading from the wires were properly re-terminated.
• All gauge lights in the dash were replaced with red LEDs, with Lucas bulbs also purchased for backup.
• The long awaited generator-to-alternator conversion was done. A 13107 55-amp, internally regulated, remanufactured Bosch alternator w/ included pulley from a 1980 Ford Fiesta was retrofitted, supplied from Harvey Bros. A new bracket from a 1500 Spitfire was purchased, restored, and retrofitted to accommodate the alternator. Electrical connections were modified as needed. The voltage regulator on the firewall was removed, and a proper termination splicing block for the wires was fitted in its place. The original voltage regulator and generator were kept; both still work fine.
• The non-working vacuum advance was removed and replaced with a new, vehicle/period-correct unit bought from Rimmerbros. The distributor, although not period correct, was lightly cleaned. Electronic ignition module was a previous conversion and it works.
• The ignition coil and bracket/hardware were removed and replaced with a Lucas performance coil and bits, terminals converted for its use.
• Spark plugs replaced.
• The electronically-converted tachometer was properly wired up for use with electronic ignition.
• Fuel filter and air filters were replaced.
• Cap, rotor, and plugs replaced.
• Realistic head unit (No. 12-1899, made in 1984) was cleaned and tested. Right channel is dysfunctional. A NOS Sanyo head unit from 1985 and a Bluetooth cassette adaptor will be used to play music, at least until the Realistic unit is diagnosed and repaired.
• Various small bits in the engine bay were brightened up for that new-look vibe.
• Ignition switch pull-off cleaned.
• Door buzzer tested and works. The wiring connection has a shorting connection at the ignition switch, so it was left unplugged.
• Door switched completely cleaned and made functional again. The bracket for the ignition courtesy light was missing, so I made a crude replacement and swapped bulbs, so that it functions as intended.
• Rubber tracks on windows were added, they were previously missing. This solved some severe rattling issues.
• Battery fluid level topped off.

Using the same procedure for installing the door mirror (save the custom-cut gasket), I approximated the factory placement of the TRIUMPH letters on the trunk and slightly exaggerated the alignment of the Spitfire MK3 script badges. Near the left bonnet lever, I went unconventional and personal in locating my favorite badge on the car, the RAF SPITFIRE logo. Red Arrows now has ices to boast her identity

• Battery lead terminals cleaned
• Lead battery terminal clamps overhauled, replaced with ring clamp steel terminal connections
• Battery grounds redone
• Battery lead cables swapped: 6 to 4 gauge fine strand welding cable. Crimped and shrunk-wrapped at the points of connection.
• Starter solenoid cleaned and polished
• Solenoid terminals cleaned or replaced with new ones and shrunk-wrapped at the points of connection.
• New holding bracket for the battery box
• OEM Lucas turn signal relay replaced with Rimmerbros 2-pin type relay on.
• New hazard relay (3-pin) bought, will be installed after existing relay dies

UPDATE (December 9th): The new thermal hazard relay is installed and in perfect working order. The turn signal relay lasted just over a month before a mechanical failure ensued (that’s the last I’ll see of Lucas). In its place I purchased a Tridon/Nuvita EL-12 flasher from my local Autozone for $13, and it’s working perfectly so far. Let’s see how long this one lasts...

Purchased form Rimmerbros with included hardware, here I fit and tuned the new cones under the hood, where previously there were no cones to dampen the hood when closing.

A rather self-explanatory swap. The old choke cable wasn't original, but what deterred me from keeping it were the stripped threads that meant to fasten it to the dash. It flopped around and the handle itself was finicky to pull and lock. I bought a period-correct replacement cable/handle from Rimmerbros. It wasn’t the locking type, but the friction type that simply pushes in and out. After feeding it smoothly through the dash to the engine bay and fastening it, it functioned much smoother. In thematic consistency to my vision of Red Arrows, I overlaid the white paint with a toothpick some bright red paint.

The 1970 MKIII Spitfire had a unique and comparatively bulky lamp encasement on the rear of the car. Underneath are set two chrome scoops, inset with a glass lens each and an incandescent "push-in" type bulb. When one of mine burnt out, it was just as well to clean up everything. So I dismounted everything with the two small screws for each set (which were rusty), the chrome scoops (filmy), the lenses (grotty) and the bulbs and contacts. The glass was easy enough to clean with a toothbrush and mild soap & water. The chrome pieces (or are they stainless?) shined up well with some fine 0000 steel wool and some Windex. I went ahead and bought new bulbs, given they were inexpensive and assured the pair in the package would look the same installed at the same time. The contacts underneath the rubber boots were cleaned with some baking soda and water, and a toothbrush, followed by electrical contact cleaner. When dried, everything was re-installed and working like new.