The Creation Of A Spit6

All, lots of us have struggled with and in most cases won against the heavy lump that turns the wheels. Some times the major problem has nothing to do with the rearend. The exhaust system, or back half of it needs to be gone, lots of places for the little Spitfire or GT6 to fight back. A couple of days before starting, put some penetrate on the brackets and pipe overlaps. While at it, give the rear long bolt, were it goes through the back a couple of shots. The bolt gets stuck in the collar of the bushing..
The trick is to not pry anything, that's where the excitement comes in, as things tend to move in a hurry when they weight this much.
A few folks have tried and removed and replaced leaving the spring in. Just not a good idea, all parts removed can be checked, if not cleaned.
Four bolts on the each out side for the suspension, slide those bolts back in their hole and put the nut and washer on. (top spring, bottom shock, trailing arm and trunnion). Now four each for on 3 drive shaft flanges. Quick way to get the axle ones is a 24 inch extension, u joint type 9/16 socket from the outside of the car, with the nut to be removed at the top. . bracing a openend against the frame. Air or a speed wrench makes quick work of it. The drive shaft bolts present them self at the bottom as you turn it..
All this should be removed before you attempt the studs at the top of the spring. Here's a little trick, that cross bolt in the cage that surrounds the spring, give it a couple of loosening turns, it allows it to move around slightly, not so much assistance on the taking out process, but you will thank me on the install, as the spring is locked in place by the slot and centering bolt, making it almost impossible to get the studs lined up. The spring will catch less on the rearend if you turn the spring sideways, curve towards the front.
If you were lucky, you now have all your fingers and not too many cuts. The prize is in sight. If you will take a crow bar or such and pry the rear bracket apart just a little, it will help it come out of it's hole. The front nuts should be taken loose, down to a few threads, do not take them off, just get it down a bit, so the rubbers are loose. It doesn't seem right, but support the lump and take the back bolt out first, should knock out without a lot of effort. It will fall down when the weight is released a bit and now take the two nuts off the front. Being careful let the jack down to clear the studs and pull the jack forward to get the rear end out of the rear brackets. Don't let it wobble off to the side, a helper would be great at this time.
Install in reverse order, taking note to stuff the rear inside the brackets at the rear. Put the rubbers on the stud, top and bottom and install washer and a few turns on the nuts. All of this while supporting the rear with a jack. If you try and put the front on first and tighten it up, your nightmare has just begun, getting the rear inside the brackets. Use a couple of good size Philips head screwdrivers or small bushing pullers, the pointed bolt will go in easy, use a little anti seize on it.
I didn't say it was going to be easy, but really it is, just time consuming.
Have fun.