The Creation Of A Spit6
Home Page: Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA
| Total Posts: 50 | Latest Post: 2023-10-05 |
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If all else fails.
Those switches work by a sliding quarter size copper washer, cut off square on two sides. A copper peg rides in the middle. The contacts have springs holding pressure on them.
Over the years they tend to get gummed up. Don't know what your expertise is or what you are willing to try, so take this or leave it.
Clean the floor out and put down a towel or sheet up the seat, tunnel and door area. Just in case you take things apart to quick and things go bong in the night.
Unplug the battery. Mark the switch and housing with a magic ma ker, to make sure we have a put back together point.
There are three small overlapping pinched pieces of pot metal (read verrrry pron to break) these hold the switch in place, move only far enough to clear the white plastic with a small screwdriver or such. Take out the small phillips head screw and unplug the ground under the switch. Some are black and some are the black with a purple strip, (for seat belt and other warning type lights and switches)
the white plastic will now pry out with a sharp screwdriver. Do this slowly and things won't tend to fly all over the car.
Do not move the key at any time. The little bar will fall out first and if you are lucky all the springs will stay in place. the washer looking part slides around making contact with different areas of the switch. Take all parts out and clean, both parts, (wire and switch side) with a soft brush and WD40. Put it all back, taking note of the knobs on that washer is facing the contacts. It will go together much easier if you use some de electric grease to hold all in place. Slowly slide back together, put in the screw and try not to break the tabs that hold it in place. If you do, thin strips of duct tape through the wires and then some around the switch. Kind of puts a emphases on those little tabs.
You now have a good chance the switch will last another 35 years.
I am getting rid of all the switches in that black/purple circuit, so I will get rid of that bar, which I think gives it a signal to not start if all is not up to the safety standards of 1980.
I may be wrong about that and have to do it over, Oh well.
Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)
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Those switches work by a sliding quarter size copper washer, cut off square on two sides. A copper peg rides in the middle. The contacts have springs holding pressure on them.
Over the years they tend to get gummed up. Don't know what your expertise is or what you are willing to try, so take this or leave it.
Clean the floor out and put down a towel or sheet up the seat, tunnel and door area. Just in case you take things apart to quick and things go bong in the night.
Unplug the battery. Mark the switch and housing with a magic ma ker, to make sure we have a put back together point.
There are three small overlapping pinched pieces of pot metal (read verrrry pron to break) these hold the switch in place, move only far enough to clear the white plastic with a small screwdriver or such. Take out the small phillips head screw and unplug the ground under the switch. Some are black and some are the black with a purple strip, (for seat belt and other warning type lights and switches)
the white plastic will now pry out with a sharp screwdriver. Do this slowly and things won't tend to fly all over the car.
Do not move the key at any time. The little bar will fall out first and if you are lucky all the springs will stay in place. the washer looking part slides around making contact with different areas of the switch. Take all parts out and clean, both parts, (wire and switch side) with a soft brush and WD40. Put it all back, taking note of the knobs on that washer is facing the contacts. It will go together much easier if you use some de electric grease to hold all in place. Slowly slide back together, put in the screw and try not to break the tabs that hold it in place. If you do, thin strips of duct tape through the wires and then some around the switch. Kind of puts a emphases on those little tabs.
You now have a good chance the switch will last another 35 years.
I am getting rid of all the switches in that black/purple circuit, so I will get rid of that bar, which I think gives it a signal to not start if all is not up to the safety standards of 1980.
I may be wrong about that and have to do it over, Oh well.
Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)
Sponsored Links. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Edit Report Reply Quote
Was this post helpful or interesting?




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