The Creation Of A Spit6

Apparently this is not a job lots of people have tackled, so I'll give you my way and try to show why.
First off, I did mine by taking the steering clamp off the lower bar because I had already taken the steering completely out in the restoration for cleaning, so I know there were not any parts in the column cover. As these bushings tend to break apart a good idea to at least remove the shafts locking bracket and rear side of the universal clamp on the steering rack and pull the whole thing out of the car. Good time to clean and add some light oil to the whole thing.
The old bushing at the top will be in bad shape looking at it, but I think why no one does this job is the fact the wear where the steering column goes is not a major wear area, so not real loose like the old ones where the horn would blow when you turned to go around a corner, so if it ain't broke don't fix it sort of thing.
The photos show what looks to be the position for the bushing
The new bushing has a rounded end and a squared off end, the rounded goes down the column. When you push the new one in, use some light weight oil on the inside and outside, it will stop on the outer ridge and you will think that is it. Nope, take a flat side of a 24 MM socket and tap it on down, making sure the left side grove in the bushing is lined up with the notch out of the column at 10 o'clock. The one on the bushing will close up but if yours switch column surround is like mine the grove to lock things in place is not wide enough to hit the plastic.
Now is the time to run the steering shafts in, don't forget the washer that goes between the column end cape and the clap. Kind of confusing where it goes, but best I can figure is the clamp goes up next to the end of the column. Gets a little tricky here, as the ignition switch lock needs to be paid attention too. You will need to turn the switch on to get the shafts in there, so disconnect the battery to save burning up you ignition. Once it's down in the locking area, get the wheels straight and turn the upper shaft until the lock works, leave it there and don't take it all the way in yet. Give the columns a good check to make sure the flat part of the lower shaft is lined up with the flat cutout of the top shaft before you install in the universal clamp on the lower serrated part and push a bolt through and nut on it. That sounded easy, but it's in the middle of the suspension tower, so spreading the clamp will help if you didn't do it getting it out. Working from the front of the tower will let you get the bolt in and a 1/4 inch drive with a short socket will tighten it up. If I can do it at 78 you younger guys and gals should have not problem.
Back to the top of the column. Put the locking clamp on the columns just enough to keep the flats together while you finish up the rest. Good time to unlock the switch to make sure all is in good order, set the steering wheel on and give it a couple of pulls and go back to neutral.
The steering shaft should be installed at 3 and 1/8 inches from the end of the metal outer column, now is the time to tighten down the locking flat bracket under the dash. Install the switch cluster with the tit going into the slot at 10 o'clock. Note the wires have to be pulled in a way as not to be in a bind. Tighten down the clamp screw, install the steering wheel, washer and nut. Cover with the casing and if you are lucky all will work.
This was my way and is correct for my situation, yours may differ.
Photos show a few things that need your attention.