The Creation Of A Spit6
Home Page: Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA
| Total Posts: 50 | Latest Post: 2023-10-05 |
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It has been a while since I put the wiring harness in the car, just had not got to hooking things up. It's a harness that was made from a '78 Spitfire going into a Spit6. I had spent a bunch of time making sure the switches all worked, they were from the early GT6, toggle type mostly..
The fuse values are a little low but they are for mostly run on a one fuse circuit instead of multi functions off the old fuse panel.
Most everything in your car runs off the brown wires and there is a cluster under the dash coming from the one off the solenoid. I fused that one with a inline fuse of 35 AMP's. Nothing I'm running should require more than that.
If you run a big stereo you need to come off the battery with more than this
I did a little write up for a member and thought I would add it here, gives a little bit more detail of what I did.
Each circuit starts out being run by the Brown or the White wire.
White being controlled by the ignition switch. So mostly I added a
six inch pigtail at the box for both wires and added 3 junctions off
that wire for the brown and 4 off the white, maybe 5 as I put the
electric fuel pump on that.
I placed a 35 AMP fuse on the Brown wire off the solenoid that comes
into cabin, as it's a major supply for the Ignition switch (white
circuit.) and Red circuit (lights) as it goes right to the back of the
light switch and the red/green did go to a fuse on the old box to
control that circuit. So that was added to the new box.
Now you have to check the wires for each function and divide them up on
the output. The wiper motor does have two green wires to supply power
and one is the return or stop switch, I didn't put them on the same
circuit.
On my box, it was going to be a little difficult to open it behind the
clutch master, so a couple of washers under the bracket moved it out of
the way.
Everything was soldered and I suppose it could be done in the car, but
I had the harness out and got rid of all the buzzer wires.
Oh, my headlights are on there own circuit off the solenoid, you can
buy that harness with relays and fuse included. Much easier. All
grounds at the front were installed on a strip bolted to the frame.
Just for adding to your thoughts, I installed LED's in the side markers
with double filaments and they work as signal and hazard plus running
lights.
Got the box off Amazon and all the male and female spade connectors,
wiring harness for lights and relays.
Hope that helps,
The fuse values are a little low but they are for mostly run on a one fuse circuit instead of multi functions off the old fuse panel.
Most everything in your car runs off the brown wires and there is a cluster under the dash coming from the one off the solenoid. I fused that one with a inline fuse of 35 AMP's. Nothing I'm running should require more than that.
If you run a big stereo you need to come off the battery with more than this
I did a little write up for a member and thought I would add it here, gives a little bit more detail of what I did.
Each circuit starts out being run by the Brown or the White wire.
White being controlled by the ignition switch. So mostly I added a
six inch pigtail at the box for both wires and added 3 junctions off
that wire for the brown and 4 off the white, maybe 5 as I put the
electric fuel pump on that.
I placed a 35 AMP fuse on the Brown wire off the solenoid that comes
into cabin, as it's a major supply for the Ignition switch (white
circuit.) and Red circuit (lights) as it goes right to the back of the
light switch and the red/green did go to a fuse on the old box to
control that circuit. So that was added to the new box.
Now you have to check the wires for each function and divide them up on
the output. The wiper motor does have two green wires to supply power
and one is the return or stop switch, I didn't put them on the same
circuit.
On my box, it was going to be a little difficult to open it behind the
clutch master, so a couple of washers under the bracket moved it out of
the way.
Everything was soldered and I suppose it could be done in the car, but
I had the harness out and got rid of all the buzzer wires.
Oh, my headlights are on there own circuit off the solenoid, you can
buy that harness with relays and fuse included. Much easier. All
grounds at the front were installed on a strip bolted to the frame.
Just for adding to your thoughts, I installed LED's in the side markers
with double filaments and they work as signal and hazard plus running
lights.
Got the box off Amazon and all the male and female spade connectors,
wiring harness for lights and relays.
Hope that helps,





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